Bihać & the Una — Rosehip, Meadowsweet & Turquoise Water

Six nights on the Una, the river that gives Una National Park its name — cold, loud, and impossibly turquoise over its travertine steps. Late August into September, when rosehip reddens against the green.

Two plants lead this chapter: Rosa canina — dog rose, rosehip — heavy on the hedges, and Filipendula ulmaria — meadowsweet — foaming cream-white at the canyon edge. The turning of the year, gathered by the water.